Day 2
4pm local, 02:00 UTC
pos: 12deg56.5S, 140deg58.16W
295 miles to go to Raraka Atoll (possible first stop), 345 miles to Faaite Atoll (sure thing surf spot)
We had a hectic late arvo/early evening yesterday with a series of squalls hitting us, with wind going up to 25 knots true, we were under full main and spinnaker. We pressed through the first 3 squalls, but it became very difficult to steer as the wind was moving from ESE to S within seconds. Shimmi was virtually uncontrollable, so we got all the sails down (getting that spinnaker down can go either way, even with the sock to douse it) and motored through the night, waiting for the squalls to F off. Andy and I are doing 4 on 4 off hand steering shimmi, we are taking strain, especially the night watches, staring at a compass for 4 hrs takes the fun out of cruising. Its during these night watches that i wonder why we are doing this without our autopilot. But the alternative was at least another 2 week wait.
Fatu Hiva was an awesome experience. After first hacking up the wrong path with the 2 kids for 3 hrs, we eventually found the right track up to the pool and waterfall. Its like a tropical version of Vogelgat. But what nobody mentions is that in this tranquil pool lives quite a few GIANT FRESH WATER EELS!!!! When I first jumped into the pool with my goggles, i almost kukked myself when this big eel glided right by me, it was like a small version of the Loch Ness monster coupled with the Jaws soundtrack. Needless to say Andy stayed dry. Also in this pool are 100's of inquisitive fresh water prawns, no doubt the reason why the eels are so big. Indie and Josh loved the whole experience, and it was worth every bit of back ache to get them up there, with Andy and myself doing the carrying when required. The island is largely unspoilt, virgin jungle with the odd bit cleared for fruit trees. We came back to shimmi loaded with limes and grapefruit. The 2 villages are strange. New toyota pickups, lots of small brand new aluminium speedboats, most of the houses are prefab kit houses, the roads are concrete, all very neat and clean. But most of the villagers are grossly overweight, they fry all their food, their staple seems to be french fries. It seems as if the French government has an all encompassing welfare program, it seems as if the islander don't really need to work?
Now we are once again in the middle of nowhere. Later tonight we will pass west of Tepoto and Napuka islands. Our main destination is the atoll FAAITE, its has a reef pass into the lagoon with a left and a right (waves!!!) on either side. Google it at 16deg42.014S, 145deg21.334W. Spirits on board are a bit low, Chantal has to do virtually all the cooking, cleaning and looking after kiddies as Andy and I are just steering and sleeping. But its not forever, it just feels like it right now!
We have been sailing the whole day, one reef in the main and genoa, the wind has been 12-16 knots true, shimmi has been flying along on a 90 deg broad reach, from 12 noon til 4pm we clocked 30 miles, almost an 8 knot average!
Curtis can you maybe send us a surf report for south facing French Polynesia?
Au revoir
G
