After a stormy crossing from Matuku, we arrived at Benga Island, situated on the eastern side of the Benga Atoll, which is about 15 miles wide. The wind was still howling from the east, so we eventually found a sheltered anchorage in Vaga Bay to rest up. Jacques, Indie, Josh and I went to a nearby beach which featured a row of pigpens, under the trees, just above the high tide line. Jacques discovered a big sow giving birth, soon Indie and Josh were checking things out, Josh called the newly born piglet "a fairy pig". Indie just said "Wow" about a 1oo times. The next morning we crossed the atoll to go check out Frigates Pass. The wave is not actually on the pass, but on the south western tip of the atoll, about 2 miles south of the pass. On the way over we caught a huge Spanish Mackerel, inside the atoll! We checked out the wave but it was blown out, so we headed across to the main island, Viti Levu. This southern coast of Viti Levu is called "The Coral Coast", and its a beautiful combination of fringing reefs, reef passes, lagoons and deep green mountains behind. We scouted out two of these reef passes, as this coast has a few great waves. But still the wind was blowing, so we ended up motoring shimmi though a tiny pass and into a lovely lagoon. The bay is called Somo-somo, and it has a lovely protected beach on its eastern shore, everyone got off shimmi and had a few beers whilst baking in the sun. A new sw swell was arriving the next day, and the wind was supposed to ease up, so that night we turned in early, hoping for a shot at Frigates Pass.
Next morning:
We could see the surf about 5 miles away, rows of white water moving down the reef in the distance. It was on! More than double overhead on the sets. It was high tide when we arrived and the waves were thick, with big shoulders, with some heavy barrels on the inside reef. At lot of water was moving around, and a strong current was flowing up the point, making it easy to get too deep. A bit like surfing Outer Kom or big Thunders. About 6 other surfers from a nearby surf camp were out. It took a while for us to figure out how and where to anchor shimmi, as the reef drops off steeply and its impossible to anchor next to the wave. But one of the surf camp guides swam over and showed us where to anchor, further inside, about half a mile from the wave. Finally we got the dingy in the water and Jacques dropped me off next to the lineup. Needless to say, I took off too deep on my first two waves, solid 8 footers, twice I got smeared and pushed about half a mile in over the reef, almost getting flushed out near our anchorage, then a long paddle back to the lineup, luckily with a current from behind. But eventually I found my rhythm, getting a good shack and putting my 6'6 pintail through its paces. Meanwhile on board shimmi Liz had gone for a dive and Chantal was biting the bullet with Indie and Josh, doing play dough, lego, painting, crayons, baking a loaf of bread, cooking a pot of stew for Indie's meals and baking a tray of choc chip muffins. Supermom.
After a quick bite I headed back for my second session. Its during this second session, on the low tide, that things turned on. I am not going to bore you with mundane descriptions of surf, but it was one of the all time sessions so far on shimmi. 6ft cylinders peeling down the reef. Take off, assume pigdog position and watch the view from inside. I felt like George Greenough in Crystal Voyager, just having one perfect slow motion barrel after another. All of us were screaming and hooting, what a special session. Frigates is a class wave, easily up there with the best of the Mentawais.
By the next day the southerly was up again, and Frigates was wild and woolly. Chantal and Jacques paddled out, without properly checking exactly how big it was. Here is Chantal's description:
"I paddled out the morning after G's epic barrel session at Frigates. Basically we only realised once I had paddled out that the waves where way too big for me! I still tried to paddle into a few but found myself flying head first over the wave followed by about 5 waves crashing on my head, followed by being swept about half a mile over the shallow barrier reef, followed by confused stares from the other guy surfers (including Dave "Rasta" Rastovich), "What's that chick doing all the way down there??" My mom and Josh saved me with a huge mug of tea loaded with sugar...which I drank after I managed to get all of the sea water out of my lungs and after a good sob."
Then we headed back to Viti Levu again, anchoring near a newly built eco resort called "Matanivusi". The owners of the resort, Brian and his wife Donna, treated us to cold beers and Josh and Indie took over their pool. We bid farewell to Liz and Jacques would commenced their epic 3 day journey back to South Africa. Jacques took some awesome pics, so keep your eyes peeled, the blog will be bursting with great pics soon!
Now we are anchored next to Yanuca Island which has a small rustic surf resort, a lovely beach and great snorkelling. And its the closest night anchorage to Frigates Pass. Soon we have to head in to Suva to pick up my dad Deon and his fiance Rosa. They will be on shimmi for 3 weeks, babysitting, washing dishes and mixing our cocktails!
Cheers!
G